The Eisacktal-Brenner Route
The Romans, the Fugger, Albrecht Dürer and Goethe came through the valley on
their way to Venice or Rome…the minstrel and poet Walther von der Vogelweide
found inspiration here and it is said he was from the Eisacktal (Eisack Valley)
in South Tyrol. Italian flair and the down-to-earth Tyrolean attitude define the
valley between Bozen and Brenner. Magnificent knight’s castles border the road
and mighty bishops had their seats here. Picturesque villages appear like
eagle’s nests high above the Eisack. Life has been pulsating in this valley for
millennia.
Length of the route: Approximately 70
km Excursions: Kastelruth – Seiser Alm, approximately 10 to
15 km
Overview of the historic route: Please click on the 1st image and scroll through the route.
Bozen, the city with southern charm
When it comes to the highlights of Bozen, each
visitor is likely to have different thoughts. Some will be drawn to one of many
sidewalk cafés to experience the lively mixture of German and Italian. Others
or, to be precise, the ladies flock to the modern boutiques in the Laubengasse.
But in addition to the archaeology museum presenting the life of Ötzi, the man
from the ice, Bozen offers its visitors even more.
Bozen, Johanneskapelle
One of the most distinguished examples of Upper
Italian mural painting is found close to the Waltherplatz in the city centre. In
the Johanneskapelle reached via the Dominican church, the walls and ceilings are
entirely covered in frescoes dating back to around 1340 (from the school of
Giotto). They show scenes from the life of Mary and St. John the Baptist. The
Dominican church itself – a hall church with three naves – goes back to the year
1300.
Bozen for those with a sweet tooth…
Pastry shops and cafés in Bozen invite you in for a tasty treat. They offer a
variety of delights from Austria, Italy and South Tyrol. If you are looking for
a healthier alternative, check out the fruit market. Read more about the
history of Bozen, which was called Bauzanum in Roman times, in the following PDF
file on the Eisacktal route.
The narrow gauge railway on the Ritten
1907 wurde die Rittnerbahn, als reine Ausflugs- und Touristenbahn in Betrieb
genommen. Wechselnd als Straßen-, Zahnrad- und Schmalspurbahn führte sie vom
Waltherplatz, mitten in Bozen, hinauf auf den Ritten bis nach Klobenstein. Die
Bahn hat bis heute nichts von ihrer Attraktion verloren. Nur das „Steilstück“
von Bozen nach Oberbozen, mit einem Höhenunterschied von rd. 1000 Metern, wurde
von einer modernen Seilbahn abgelöst. Auf der 20-Minuten-Fahrt der
Schmalspurbahn von Oberbozen bis Klobenstein wetteifern die Bergmassive der
Dolomiten um das schönste Fotomotiv. Eine sehr empfehlenswerte slow-seeing Tour
im Halbstundentakt. Die Nostalgiebahn ist in Oberbozen (Garagen) am Bahnhof zu
bewundern, wenn nicht im Fahreinsatz. Vorher bitte den Schaffner um Erlaubnis
fragen.
Lengmoos - Kaiserstraße
Die Kommende des Deutschen Ordens liegt an der so genannten Kaiserstraße.
Seit 1211 bestand hier am Ulrichspass ein Hospiz für die Reisenden zwischen
Italien und dem Norden, das 1235 an den Orden ging. Der heutige Bau geht auf das
Jahr 1625 zurück und enthält kostbar ausgestattete Räume mit Prunköfen,
Stuckdecken und bemalten Tapeten. Heute finden die Rittner Sommerspiele in der
Kommenden statt. Vorbei an den Erdpyramiden (kurze Wanderung) und der
Wallfahrtskirche Maria Saal (16. Jh.) mit der „Muttergottes unterm Regenschirm“
(1924), erreicht man wie schon einst der Kaiser, das Dörfl Lengstein.
Kaiser Karl V. auf dem Ritten
Auf seiner Italienreise über den Ritten kam der Kaiser auch in Lengstein mit
dem ursprünglich romanischen Wallfahrtskirchlein St. Ottilia (hübsche gotische
Innenausstattung) vorbei. Am 12. März 1555 verlieh er der Familie Mayr in der
Sulz ein kaiserliches Wappen. Über dem Eingang des Gasthofes Schwaiger (Besitzer
Familie Mayr) kann das Wappen immer noch bewundert werden. Nach Lengstein
wird die Straße enger und kurvenreicher. Sie führt vorbei am Penzlhof (Funde aus
der alpinen Kupferzeit, befinden sich im Archäologiemuseum in Bozen) und St.
Verena (889 m) mit Blick auf die Zillertaler Alpen hinunter nach Barbian (ca. 7
km) ins Eisacktal.
Castel Runkelstein - Bozen
Eine sehr bemerkenswerte Burganlage mit einer einmaligen Freskenbemalung
befindet sich unweit von Bozen hoch über dem Eingang zum Sarntal. Ein Abstecher
der sich lohnt. Bereits im ersten Jahrhundert seiner Geschichte erlebte die
Burg (13. Jh.) Aufbau, Eroberung und Verfall. Im 14. Jh. erstrahlt sie dann
wieder im neuen Glanz mit großem Burghof und profanen Wandmalereien des
Mittelalters. Die Burgkapelle wurde 1390 eingeweiht. 1520 wurde das „Gewölbe an
der Porten“ durch eine Pulverexplosion zerstört. Die Runkelsteiner
Fresken sind eine einzigartige Darstellung des höfischen Lebens und der
Bekleidung im Mittelalter. Mittelalterlich ist auch der Weg hinauf zur Burg und
festes Schuhwerk empfiehlt sich für die „Stolpersteine“. Die Burg beherbergt
die unterschiedlichsten Ausstellungen und kann von Dienstag -
Sonntag besichtigt werden. Wer das Mittelalter-Programm geschafft hat, kann
im Mittelalterambiente der Burgschänke eine Erfrischung zu sich nehmen.
Die Große Dolomiten Straße
Die Große Dolomitenstraße, 110 km von Bozen bis Cortina d'Ampezzo. Sie wurde
am 13. September 1909 eröffnet und mit großen Schwierigkeiten den Bergen
abgerungen. Das erste Teilstück, die Eggentalstraße wurde schon seit 1860
genutzt und führte über eine nur wenige Meter breite Straße durch eine enge
Schlucht (heute ein Tunnel). 1896 war die Straße über den knapp 1.800 m hohen
Karerpass fertig. Damals krönte die Romantik des Karersees mit seinem Latemar
ein Grandhotel in dem sogar Kaiserin Sisi verweilte. Über das Pordoijoch führten
bis 1900 noch Saumpfade und 1909 wurde die letzte schwierige Hürde mit dem
Falzarego Pass genommen. Im Ersten Weltkrieg (1915-18) wurde die einst für den
Fremdenverkehr geplante Bergstrecke zweckentfremdet und für Militärzwecke
genutzt. Erfahren Sie mehr über die Dolomiten, das UNESCO Weltnaturerbe seit
Juni 2009 >>>
Kastelruth - Seiser Alm
Visiting the Eisacktal (Eisack Valley) without an
excursion to the picturesque Schlern region would be a crying shame. The
communities of Seis, Völs and Kastelruth will charm you with their houses
decorated in flowers, with pinnacle gables and bay windows. Kastelruth also
offers one of the land’s tallest late Baroque onion domes. Once you are here,
you really should take the cable car (from Seis) up to the Seiseralm. The
largest and highest alpine area in Europe offers a magnificent panorama from the
Geisler Gruppe, Langkofel and Rosengarten to the Schlern, guardian of the Seiser
Alm – flowering meadows and Schlernhexen (Armeria alpina)
included.
Waidbruck, Trostburg of the counts von Wolkenstein
The community’s ancient middle-class houses are
overtopped by the striking 12th-century castle of the counts von Wolkenstein.
This castle can only be viewed as part of a guided tour (during the summer
months). A large collection of other castle models can be found here. The
knight’s hall with its carved wood ceiling is noteworthy
Klausen and Säben Convent
The medieval Klausen was granted town ordinances and privileges by the
bishop of Brixen in the year 1400. Even then, the beauty of the surrounding
landscape inspired Albrecht Dürer to capture Klausen and its vicinity in the
etching “Das große Glück”.
Säben Convent dates back to the 4th century and was the Rhaetian see until
the 10th century. Then the complex was expanded to resemble a castle and
converted into a Benedictine convent in 1681. A 30-minute hike from Klausen
takes you to the convent.
Feldthurns
Just a few kilometres above the Eisacktal (Eisack
Valley), the village of Feldthurns has a magical view of the Dolomites. The
Renaissance castle of the bishops of Brixen dating back to medieval times is the
high point of the community. It originated in the 12th century. In the 16th
century, it was converted into a magnificent summer residence. The castle is one
of the grandest structures of the Tyrolean Renaissance. Guided tours and the
museum of local history from March through November. In addition to a magical
mountain location and the castle, Feldthurns offers hiking trails lined by
chestnut trees. We recommend a fall “Keschtn” hike to the many small churches by
the wayside.
Archeoparc Tanzgasse Feldthurns
An abundance of stones offers insights into the
Neolithic. Digs and remains around Feldthurns provide evidence of the first
human settlements around 5,000 BC. They are centred around the Tanzgasse, from
Danzwiese at the time of Maria Theresa (dance floor of the witches). The
megalith ritual site from the Copper Age is the most significant in all of
Europe. This place of worship tells us about the life and culture of our
forebears from the age of Ötzi, the man from the Similaun glacier. Studies of
Ötzi's tooth enamel revealed traces of gneiss and phyllite found in and around
Feldthurns (Eisacktal und Meran). This means Ötzi may have lived in the
Tanzgasse. Admission to the Archeoparc is free.
Brixen, the Episcopal city
Brixen is first mentioned in documents in the year
902. 70 years later, Bishop Albuin moved his seat from Säben to Brixen. The
first cathedral was built in 990. In 1091, Brixen became a mighty diocese and
its influence extended all the way to Lake Constance. Mariä Himmelfahrt
Cathedral was remodelled in the Baroque style from 1745 to 1754. The ceiling
fresco by Paul Troger (1750) is remarkable. With its arcades and stores, the
beautiful old town invites visitors for a leisurely stroll.
Brixen, the cloister a cultural jewel
Located on the northern side of the cathedral, the
cloister was intended as a place of meditation for members of the order. It was
expanded and remodelled over the centuries. The ribbed vault dates back to the
15th century. Since few people were able to read in those days, the walls and
ceilings were painted with biblical scenes as a sort of oversized biblical
textbook. With the small garden in the courtyard, this cloister is a place of
reflection even today once the flow of visitors ceases and quiet
reigns.
Neustift Monastery, Augustine Monastery of Canons
This impressive monastery complex (founded in 1142)
with its famous wine cellars is located around 3 km from Brixen. The vineyards
(particularly picturesque in the fall) around the monastery provide an
indication of just how good this location is. The basilica with three naves is
among the most important architectural monuments of the Baroque (1734-1737) in
German-speaking regions. Frescoes by Matthias Günther and Michael Pacher
(vestry). Outside the monastery gates is a model of the “Engelsburg”. The
Neustift Monastery library is also noteworthy.
Franzensfeste (Fortezza
It is not hard to guess that this mighty fortress on the Eisack is named
after its founding monarch, Emperor Francis I. Construction took place during
the period from 1833 to 1838. The Franzensfeste was constructed as a bastion to
protect the Brennerpass. Up to 4,500 men worked on this construction site. Plans
included barracks and ammunition storage for a garrison of around 1,000 soldiers
and up to 90 cannon to protect the streets in case of war. However, the fortress
was never “put into operation” and also never completed. Starting in 1930, the
Italian army expanded the bunker facilities which were subsequently given up due
to the beginning of World War II. In August 1809, Tyrolean freedom fighter
Andreas Hofer was beaten by around 2,500 French, Bavarians and Saxons during a
2-day battle in the vicinity of the Franzensfeste. His 500 Tyroleans were
helpless against the superior force from the north under General Lefebvre. This
ambush was soon referred to as the “Saxenklemme” (Saxon squeeze).
Castle Reifenstein and Castle Sprechenstein
Located close to Sterzing, Reifenstein Castle from the 12th century is one of
the oldest castles in South Tyrol and can be visited on a guided tour. Vis à vis
Castle Sprechenstein from the 16th century.
Sterzing, historic old town
Richly decorated façades, loggias and alleys invite
shoppers for a leisurely stroll. Sterzing has been an important commercial and
mining centre since medieval times. The wealth of the city can be traced back to
lead and silver mining.
Sterzing and its distinctive emblem
The Zwölferturm (46 m tall) from the 15th century,
which divides the community into the old and new quarters, is the emblem of the
town. After a fire in 1867 destroyed the original red helm roof, the tower
received its stepped gable. One of the most magnificent town halls of South
Tyrol is found here in the new town. The late Gothic structure (1468-1472) was
erected on the site of a middle-class house. Here the council chambers are
especially noteworthy (tours). Dedicated to the Persian god Mithra, the
Mithrasstein is a Roman altar stone found in the town hall’s courtyard. This
stone dates back to the year 200 AD and was found on the Roman road in a
mountain cave near Mauls. Another Roman milestone from the time of Emperor
Septimus is also on display in the courtyard. It was found in 1979 during
construction in the new town of Sterzing.
Church of the Holy Spirit
The small Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit) is found in the
Bürgerspital (town hospital) on the town square behind the Zwölferturm. The
interior of the church with two naves has a ribbed vault. Hans von Bruneck
painted the entire interior in the 15th century. "Unsere liebe Frau im Moos"
(Our Lady in the Moss) parish church (15th century) in Sterzing with its famous
Multscher statues at the high altar is also well worth a visit. The Multscher
and Town Museum in the Deutschordenshaus is located close to the parish church.
Most of the late Gothic winged altar by Ulm sculptor and painter Hans Multscher
is kept here.
Gossensass takes you out of the Eisacktal in the direction of Brenner (1,374
m above sea level).
Other historic routes >>>
Our hotel recommendations for this route
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Hotel Icaro
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Wellnesshotel Weihrerhof
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Relaishotel Weisses Rössl
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Gourmet-Gasthof Kuppelrain
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Genießer- & Wanderhotel Jägerhof
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