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The Eisacktal-Brenner Route

The Romans, the Fugger, Albrecht Dürer and Goethe came through the valley on their way to Venice or Rome…the minstrel and poet Walther von der Vogelweide found inspiration here and it is said he was from the Eisacktal (Eisack Valley) in South Tyrol. Italian flair and the down-to-earth Tyrolean attitude define the valley between Bozen and Brenner. Magnificent knight’s castles border the road and mighty bishops had their seats here. Picturesque villages appear like eagle’s nests high above the Eisack. Life has been pulsating in this valley for millennia.

Length of the route: Approximately 70 km
Excursions: Kastelruth – Seiser Alm, approximately 10 to 15 km

Overview of the historic route:
Please click on the 1st image and scroll through the route.

 

Bozen, the city with southern charm

When it comes to the highlights of Bozen, each visitor is likely to have different thoughts. Some will be drawn to one of many sidewalk cafés to experience the lively mixture of German and Italian. Others or, to be precise, the ladies flock to the modern boutiques in the Laubengasse. But in addition to the archaeology museum presenting the life of Ötzi, the man from the ice, Bozen offers its visitors even more.

Bozen, Johanneskapelle

One of the most distinguished examples of Upper Italian mural painting is found close to the Waltherplatz in the city centre. In the Johanneskapelle reached via the Dominican church, the walls and ceilings are entirely covered in frescoes dating back to around 1340 (from the school of Giotto). They show scenes from the life of Mary and St. John the Baptist. The Dominican church itself – a hall church with three naves – goes back to the year 1300.

Bozen for those with a sweet tooth…

Pastry shops and cafés in Bozen invite you in for a tasty treat. They offer a variety of delights from Austria, Italy and South Tyrol. If you are looking for a healthier alternative, check out the fruit market.
Read more about the history of Bozen, which was called Bauzanum in Roman times, in the following PDF file on the Eisacktal route.

 

The narrow gauge railway on the Ritten

1907 wurde die Rittnerbahn, als reine Ausflugs- und Touristenbahn in Betrieb genommen. Wechselnd als Straßen-, Zahnrad- und Schmalspurbahn führte sie vom Waltherplatz, mitten in Bozen, hinauf auf den Ritten bis nach Klobenstein. Die Bahn hat bis heute nichts von ihrer Attraktion verloren. Nur das „Steilstück“ von Bozen nach Oberbozen, mit einem Höhenunterschied von rd. 1000 Metern, wurde von einer modernen Seilbahn abgelöst. Auf der 20-Minuten-Fahrt der Schmalspurbahn von Oberbozen bis Klobenstein wetteifern die Bergmassive der Dolomiten um das schönste Fotomotiv. Eine sehr empfehlenswerte slow-seeing Tour im Halbstundentakt. Die Nostalgiebahn ist in Oberbozen (Garagen) am Bahnhof zu bewundern, wenn nicht im Fahreinsatz. Vorher bitte den Schaffner um Erlaubnis fragen. 

 

Lengmoos - Kaiserstraße

Die Kommende des Deutschen Ordens liegt an der so genannten Kaiserstraße. Seit 1211 bestand hier am Ulrichspass ein Hospiz für die Reisenden zwischen Italien und dem Norden, das 1235 an den Orden ging. Der heutige Bau geht auf das Jahr 1625 zurück und enthält kostbar ausgestattete Räume mit Prunköfen, Stuckdecken und bemalten Tapeten. Heute finden die Rittner Sommerspiele in der Kommenden statt.
Vorbei an den Erdpyramiden (kurze Wanderung) und der Wallfahrtskirche Maria Saal (16. Jh.) mit der „Muttergottes unterm Regenschirm“ (1924), erreicht man wie schon einst der Kaiser, das Dörfl Lengstein.

 

Kaiser Karl V. auf dem Ritten

Auf seiner Italienreise über den Ritten kam der Kaiser auch in Lengstein mit dem ursprünglich romanischen Wallfahrtskirchlein St. Ottilia (hübsche gotische Innenausstattung) vorbei. Am 12. März 1555 verlieh er der Familie Mayr in der Sulz ein kaiserliches Wappen. Über dem Eingang des Gasthofes Schwaiger (Besitzer Familie Mayr) kann das Wappen immer noch bewundert werden.
Nach Lengstein wird die Straße enger und kurvenreicher. Sie führt vorbei am Penzlhof (Funde aus der alpinen Kupferzeit, befinden sich im Archäologiemuseum in Bozen) und St. Verena (889 m) mit Blick auf die Zillertaler Alpen hinunter nach Barbian (ca. 7 km) ins Eisacktal.

 

Castel Runkelstein - Bozen

Eine sehr bemerkenswerte Burganlage mit einer einmaligen Freskenbemalung befindet sich unweit von Bozen hoch über dem Eingang zum Sarntal. Ein Abstecher der sich lohnt.
Bereits im ersten Jahrhundert seiner Geschichte erlebte die Burg (13. Jh.) Aufbau, Eroberung und Verfall. Im 14. Jh. erstrahlt sie dann wieder im neuen Glanz mit großem Burghof und profanen Wandmalereien des Mittelalters. Die Burgkapelle wurde 1390 eingeweiht. 1520 wurde das „Gewölbe an der Porten“ durch eine Pulverexplosion zerstört. Die Runkelsteiner Fresken sind eine einzigartige Darstellung des höfischen Lebens und der Bekleidung im Mittelalter. Mittelalterlich ist auch der Weg hinauf zur Burg und festes Schuhwerk empfiehlt sich für die „Stolpersteine“.
Die Burg beherbergt die unterschiedlichsten Ausstellungen und kann von Dienstag - Sonntag besichtigt werden. Wer das Mittelalter-Programm geschafft hat, kann im Mittelalterambiente der Burgschänke eine Erfrischung zu sich nehmen.

 

Die Große Dolomiten Straße

Die Große Dolomitenstraße, 110 km von Bozen bis Cortina d'Ampezzo. Sie wurde am 13. September 1909 eröffnet und mit großen Schwierigkeiten den Bergen abgerungen. Das erste Teilstück, die Eggentalstraße wurde schon seit 1860 genutzt und führte über eine nur wenige Meter breite Straße durch eine enge Schlucht (heute ein Tunnel). 1896 war die Straße über den knapp 1.800 m hohen Karerpass fertig. Damals krönte die Romantik des Karersees mit seinem Latemar ein Grandhotel in dem sogar Kaiserin Sisi verweilte. Über das Pordoijoch führten bis 1900 noch Saumpfade und 1909 wurde die letzte schwierige Hürde mit dem Falzarego Pass genommen. Im Ersten Weltkrieg (1915-18) wurde die einst für den Fremdenverkehr geplante Bergstrecke zweckentfremdet und für Militärzwecke genutzt. Erfahren Sie mehr über die Dolomiten, das UNESCO Weltnaturerbe seit Juni 2009 >>>

 

Kastelruth - Seiser Alm

Visiting the Eisacktal (Eisack Valley) without an excursion to the picturesque Schlern region would be a crying shame. The communities of Seis, Völs and Kastelruth will charm you with their houses decorated in flowers, with pinnacle gables and bay windows. Kastelruth also offers one of the land’s tallest late Baroque onion domes. Once you are here, you really should take the cable car (from Seis) up to the Seiseralm. The largest and highest alpine area in Europe offers a magnificent panorama from the Geisler Gruppe, Langkofel and Rosengarten to the Schlern, guardian of the Seiser Alm – flowering meadows and Schlernhexen (Armeria alpina) included.

Waidbruck, Trostburg of the counts von Wolkenstein

The community’s ancient middle-class houses are overtopped by the striking 12th-century castle of the counts von Wolkenstein. This castle can only be viewed as part of a guided tour (during the summer months). A large collection of other castle models can be found here. The knight’s hall with its carved wood ceiling is noteworthy

Klausen and Säben Convent

The medieval Klausen was granted town ordinances and privileges by the bishop of Brixen in the year 1400. Even then, the beauty of the surrounding landscape inspired Albrecht Dürer to capture Klausen and its vicinity in the etching “Das große Glück”.

Säben Convent dates back to the 4th century and was the Rhaetian see until the 10th century. Then the complex was expanded to resemble a castle and converted into a Benedictine convent in 1681. A 30-minute hike from Klausen takes you to the convent.

 

 

Feldthurns

Just a few kilometres above the Eisacktal (Eisack Valley), the village of Feldthurns has a magical view of the Dolomites. The Renaissance castle of the bishops of Brixen dating back to medieval times is the high point of the community. It originated in the 12th century. In the 16th century, it was converted into a magnificent summer residence. The castle is one of the grandest structures of the Tyrolean Renaissance. Guided tours and the museum of local history from March through November. In addition to a magical mountain location and the castle, Feldthurns offers hiking trails lined by chestnut trees. We recommend a fall “Keschtn” hike to the many small churches by the wayside.

Archeoparc Tanzgasse Feldthurns

An abundance of stones offers insights into the Neolithic. Digs and remains around Feldthurns provide evidence of the first human settlements around 5,000 BC. They are centred around the Tanzgasse, from Danzwiese at the time of Maria Theresa (dance floor of the witches). The megalith ritual site from the Copper Age is the most significant in all of Europe. This place of worship tells us about the life and culture of our forebears from the age of Ötzi, the man from the Similaun glacier. Studies of Ötzi's tooth enamel revealed traces of gneiss and phyllite found in and around Feldthurns (Eisacktal und Meran). This means Ötzi may have lived in the Tanzgasse. Admission to the Archeoparc is free.

Brixen, the Episcopal city

Brixen is first mentioned in documents in the year 902. 70 years later, Bishop Albuin moved his seat from Säben to Brixen. The first cathedral was built in 990. In 1091, Brixen became a mighty diocese and its influence extended all the way to Lake Constance. Mariä Himmelfahrt Cathedral was remodelled in the Baroque style from 1745 to 1754. The ceiling fresco by Paul Troger (1750) is remarkable. With its arcades and stores, the beautiful old town invites visitors for a leisurely stroll.

Brixen, the cloister a cultural jewel

Located on the northern side of the cathedral, the cloister was intended as a place of meditation for members of the order. It was expanded and remodelled over the centuries. The ribbed vault dates back to the 15th century. Since few people were able to read in those days, the walls and ceilings were painted with biblical scenes as a sort of oversized biblical textbook. With the small garden in the courtyard, this cloister is a place of reflection even today once the flow of visitors ceases and quiet reigns.

Neustift Monastery, Augustine Monastery of Canons

This impressive monastery complex (founded in 1142) with its famous wine cellars is located around 3 km from Brixen. The vineyards (particularly picturesque in the fall) around the monastery provide an indication of just how good this location is. The basilica with three naves is among the most important architectural monuments of the Baroque (1734-1737) in German-speaking regions. Frescoes by Matthias Günther and Michael Pacher (vestry). Outside the monastery gates is a model of the “Engelsburg”. The Neustift Monastery library is also noteworthy.

Franzensfeste (Fortezza

It is not hard to guess that this mighty fortress on the Eisack is named after its founding monarch, Emperor Francis I. Construction took place during the period from 1833 to 1838. The Franzensfeste was constructed as a bastion to protect the Brennerpass. Up to 4,500 men worked on this construction site. Plans included barracks and ammunition storage for a garrison of around 1,000 soldiers and up to 90 cannon to protect the streets in case of war. However, the fortress was never “put into operation” and also never completed. Starting in 1930, the Italian army expanded the bunker facilities which were subsequently given up due to the beginning of World War II. In August 1809, Tyrolean freedom fighter Andreas Hofer was beaten by around 2,500 French, Bavarians and Saxons during a 2-day battle in the vicinity of the Franzensfeste. His 500 Tyroleans were helpless against the superior force from the north under General Lefebvre. This ambush was soon referred to as the “Saxenklemme” (Saxon squeeze).

 

Castle Reifenstein and Castle Sprechenstein

Located close to Sterzing, Reifenstein Castle from the 12th century is one of the oldest castles in South Tyrol and can be visited on a guided tour. Vis à vis Castle Sprechenstein from the 16th century.

 

Sterzing, historic old town

Richly decorated façades, loggias and alleys invite shoppers for a leisurely stroll. Sterzing has been an important commercial and mining centre since medieval times. The wealth of the city can be traced back to lead and silver mining.

Sterzing and its distinctive emblem

The Zwölferturm (46 m tall) from the 15th century, which divides the community into the old and new quarters, is the emblem of the town. After a fire in 1867 destroyed the original red helm roof, the tower received its stepped gable. One of the most magnificent town halls of South Tyrol is found here in the new town. The late Gothic structure (1468-1472) was erected on the site of a middle-class house. Here the council chambers are especially noteworthy (tours). Dedicated to the Persian god Mithra, the Mithrasstein is a Roman altar stone found in the town hall’s courtyard. This stone dates back to the year 200 AD and was found on the Roman road in a mountain cave near Mauls. Another Roman milestone from the time of Emperor Septimus is also on display in the courtyard. It was found in 1979 during construction in the new town of Sterzing.

Church of the Holy Spirit

The small Heiliggeistkirche (Church of the Holy Spirit) is found in the Bürgerspital (town hospital) on the town square behind the Zwölferturm. The interior of the church with two naves has a ribbed vault. Hans von Bruneck painted the entire interior in the 15th century.
"Unsere liebe Frau im Moos" (Our Lady in the Moss) parish church (15th century) in Sterzing with its famous Multscher statues at the high altar is also well worth a visit. The Multscher and Town Museum in the Deutschordenshaus is located close to the parish church. Most of the late Gothic winged altar by Ulm sculptor and painter Hans Multscher is kept here.

Gossensass takes you out of the Eisacktal in the direction of Brenner (1,374 m above sea level).

Other historic routes >>>

Our hotel recommendations for this route

Panorama-Wellnesshotel Feldthurnerhof Panorama-Wellnesshotel Feldthurnerhof
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South Tyrol: Jörg Trafojer, who has been awarded stars and chef’s hats, values premium ingredients and a stylish ambiance. Ambiance Award 2007!
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Genießer- & Wanderhotel Jägerhof Genießer- & Wanderhotel Jägerhof
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