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Chiemgau-Salzburg Route
South-East Bavaria, the Chiemgau and the Berchtesgadener Land were
beautifully sculpted by the ice age to resemble an oversize open-air theatre.
This route begins in Kufstein, the city with the fortress high above the Inn.
Through the Priental (Prien Valley), we take you to the Chiemsee and onward to
the Königssee via the German alpine highway. The route ends at the fortress and
festival city of Salzburg, one of the most beautiful cities in the Alps.
Length of the route: Approximately 120
km Excursions: Chiemsee boat crossing to the islands
Brief history of the route: Please click on the 1st
image and scroll through the route.
Kufstein, the pearl of Tyrol
For centuries the Kufstein fortress has stood
majestically over the city on the Inn as its emblem. The fortress on the jagged
cliffs is accessible by glass elevator or a roofed passageway. First mentioned
in 1205, the castle was taken from Bavaria by the Austrian emperor Maximilian I
in 1504. Although it was considered impregnable, the Austrians took it by storm.
At a height of more than 90 meters, the Kaiserturm was completed by 1522. As you
are touring the city, you should keep an eye on the time since the Heldenorgel
(an organ) in the Bürgerturm can be heard across town each day at 12:00 noon
(and also at 5:00 pm in the summertime). With 4,307 pipes, it is the largest
outdoor organ in the world.
Sachrang, the village of Müllner Peter
The small Bavarian village at the top of the Priental
looks back on a lively history. It became part of the Chiemsee diocese as a gift in
1216. Around 100 years later, it was transferred to Lord von Hohenaschau as a fiefdom before
being purchased by the Hohenaschau seignorial court in the year 1529. At the end of
the 17th century, the Graubündner brothers Giulio and Pietro Zucalli gave St.
Michael parish church an especially magnificent flair one would not expect in a small
village on the border. Author Carl Oscar Renner dedicated a novel “Der
Müllner-Peter von Sachrang” to the most famous son of Sachrang Huber Peter (1766-1843), called
“Müllner” after his trade. Sachrang became legend after a movie based on the
novel was released.
Aschau in the Chiemgau
Along with the two onion
domes of the Baroque parish church “Darstellung des Herrn”, the Aschauer
Priental (Prien Valley) is defined by the mighty Schloss Hohenaschau
(Hohenaschau Castle) (12th century). The palace chapel was remodelled in the
Baroque style at the end of the 17th century. The altarpieces of the two side
altars are works of Johann Babtist Zimmermann. For centuries the castle was a
hub and seat of the seignorial court until the year 1848. Tip! The
Kampenwand (1,668 m) and the mountain lookout point in Chiemgau. (Accessed by
cable car from Hohenaschau.)
Urschalling
The small, simple village church (castle and church
of the Falkensteiner in the 12th century) is home to one of the greatest church
paintings in the Alps. This Gothic-Romanic series of frescoes originated in the
12th to 14th centuries. Viewed in sequence, the frescoes represent a distinct
biblical concept. The oldest of the paintings, illustrating the fall of mankind
on the left-hand side of the sanctuary, was created in the 2nd half of the 12th
century.
Chiemsee, the Bavarian sea
As a vestige of the last
alpine glacier, Bavaria’s largest lake (84 square kilometres) was formed nearly
15,000 years ago. Its biggest tributary is the Tyrolean Ache. As a nature
reserve, the river delta of the Ache is a paradise for birds. Attracted by large
stocks of fish, Celts and Romans built settlements along the shores of the lake
and on the islands. Three captivating islands – the Herreninsel, Frauenwörth and
smaller Krautinsel – dot the lake. Crossings to the islands from Prien,
approximately 3 km from Urschalling, are offered by Chiemsee
Schiffahrt.
Herrenchiemsee an island in the Bavarian sea
The former Augustine monastery of canons is also
known as the “old castle”. Its founding goes back to Duke Tassilo III, a member
of the Agilolfinger dynasty in the 8th century. The Augustine monastery of
canons was established in 1130. In 1215, the Salzburg diocese set up the
Chiemsee suffrage diocese. Like most medieval monasteries, Chiemsee became a key
cultural organisation with an economic and a political centre. The monastery and
especially the “Fürstenstock” are among the most impressive Baroque structures
from the 17th and 18th centuries.
Herrenchiemsee King Ludwig’s Versailles
Even before he acquired the Herreninsel, King Ludwig
II had plans for a castle modelled on Versailles. Architect Georg Dollmann
implemented his plans (construction commenced in 1878) and designed an even more
perfect Versailles. At a length of 98 metres, the hall of mirrors (17 mirrors)
is even larger than the gallery of mirrors in Versailles. In those days the
1,848 candles on 44 candelabra and 33 chandeliers were lit for the king alone.
Construction stopped on May 5, 1886. The king passed away at Starnberger See on
June 13, 1886. “If I cannot build, I cannot live.”
Frauenchiemsee, the most beautiful village in Bavaria
The convent on the Fraueninsel was founded around 860
by Emperor Ludwig the German. His daughter Irmingard was the first abbess. The
Marienmünster is a late Ottonian structure from the early 11th century. Murals
from the early 12th century are the most prized possession (exhibition in the
atrium). The door frame with the tympanum is most likely from Carolingian times
(9th century). The Campanile next to the church is the emblem of Chiemgau. With
its octagonal shape, it was originally constructed in the 10th / 11th centuries
as a defence and flight tower. The current onion dome replaced the old steeple
in 1572. This onion dome is the oldest in Bavaria.
Next to the convent founded by Ludwig the German in
the 9th century is the oldest “high building” in Bavaria, the Romanic atrium of
the Carolingians and the oldest section of the convent. The open hall with its
barrel vault represents one of the oldest types of vaults and is known from
Grecian and Etruscan architecture.
Fretwork friezes and
representational murals were uncovered in the Michaelskapelle on the second
floor. The monochrome angels drawn with red lines date back to the early
9th century. Before leaving the island, you should take the time to try
some Chiemsee fish and drop by the island potter. Next to fishing, pottery is
one of the oldest traditions on Frauenwörth.
The German alpine highway
The German alpine highway runs from Lindau to
Salzburg. You can follow this road to Berchtesgaden from Chiemsee via Bernau,
Grassau, Reit im Winkl, Ruhpolding and Inzell. One of the most beautiful
views along this alpine route is found in Ramsau. The famous church by the
wayside (St. Sebastian, 1512) with a view of the Hochkalter (2,608 m) is found
along the old salt route from Schellenberg to Lofer. But not only the salt
sumpters passed by this way for centuries; the Celts also took this route across
to the Pinzgau. More information about St. Sebastian is found in the detailed
route description which is available for download.
Maria Gern Pilgrimage Church
Maria Gern Church
(1708) is among the most beautiful Baroque pilgrimage churches in Southern Germany. As pilgrimages continued to increase at
the end of the 17th century, the predecessor church soon became too
small. The church features surprising festive Baroque and a delightful stucco
ceiling. Going for a hike up here in
Maria Gern is highly recommended. The site of the church between Untersberg and
Watzmann is unique and very picturesque.
Berchtesgaden
Berchtesgaden gave its name to the entire region. With
the opening of the rail line in 1888, the Berchtesgadener Land received a major
boost – especially through tourism. But first came the painters who wanted to
capture the landscape at the foot of the second-highest mountain in Germany –
the Watzmann at 2,713 m – on canvas for posterity. A stroll through the city
offers numerous captivating views of the majestic mountain landscape.
Nevertheless, you should pay attention to the façade murals on houses in the
typical Salzburg style. The earliest façade mural, which dates back to around
1610, is found on the former guesthouse “Zum Hirschen”. In whimsical scenes,
monkeys represent the vices of humanity.
An 11th-century hunting lodge called “Perther” (Gaden
means house) gave the community its name. Count Berengar von Sulzbach founded an
Augustine monastery of canons in 1105. The monastery received the salt monopoly
from the German rulers in 1156, followed by worldly jurisdiction in 1194.
Starting in 1245, the monastery of canons which first attained wealth from salt
mining reported directly to the pope. From 1594 to 1723, the Wittelsbacher were
also lords provosts of Berchtesgaden. In the middle of the 15th century, the
Romanic nave of the St. Peter and Johannes monastery of canons was replaced by a
late Gothic church with three naves. The foundation walls of the double towers
date back to Romanic times. Note the Romanic cloister dated around 1220 / 1250;
it is one of the most famous in Germany. Next to the collegiate church, the
castle museum in the former Wittelsbacher Castle with an extensive collection
from Crown Prince Ruprecht of Bavaria is worth a look. The historic Nonntal
is the oldest street of houses in the city and features the typical alpine
style. It goes back to the former Augustine convent. Starting with the
Schlossplatz and the collegiate church, you will also find the old cemetery
(from 1685, protected as a historic monument), the town hall, the provost's
house (1560) and the museum of local history on this street. This street also
leads to the salt mine. Worth a visit: Berchtesgadener museum of local
history, Berchtesgaden salt mine (a visit to the mine is worthwhile and
enjoyable, not just for children).
The Königssee and Bartholomä
You can comfortably reach the Königssee on foot, by
bike or by car. Motor vessels (now with regular all-round electric boat
sailings) have been travelling the lake since 1909. Tourists can cross to the
world-famous St. Bartholomä church, the emblem of Königssee, which is frequently
painted and photographed. At the foot of the Hachelköpfe and the lesser
Watzmann, boats sailing to the peninsula make a stop at the echo wall for the
famous echo of trumpets that mystically sounds across the lake. Dedicated to the
Holy Trinity, the “Basilica Chunigesse” was build around 1134. A chapel of
Bartholomew is first mentioned in 1522. St. Bartholomew is the patron saint of
alpine farmers, dairymaids and shepherds. St. Bartholomä Church was also
remodelled in the Baroque style in 1698 and, at the beginning of the 18th
century, connected to the hunting lodge by an addition (rotunda). A trip on
the Jennerbahn to the mountain station at 1,800 m above the sea and Königssee
promises glorious views of Berchtesgaden National Park.
Kehlsteinhaus
The Kehlsteinhaus offers a grandiose view of the Alps
from an elevation of 1,834 m. It took a mere 13 months to complete the road to
the summit (not open to the public). It is a true masterpiece of road
engineering. An elevator takes you to the mountain station from the bus turning
area. The elevator travels a distance of 124 m in just 41 seconds.
Reichenhall
The region around Reichenhall was already settled in the Bronze Age –
probably due to the salt springs. (Archaeological finds in the museum of local
history!) 700 salt pans were in use around the year 700. Salzburg and Bavaria
fought over the salt, which led to a defence wall for Reichenhall in order to
protect it. 190,000 l of the brine with its high salt content (24%) were
produced daily. The discovery of its healing powers in the 19th century marked
the beginning of a highly successful period for the city. Reichenhall is one of
Germany's major spa towns.
Bad Reichenhall the spa town
The largest open-air
inhalatorium in Germany (1912, 720 m in length, wood construction) is found in
the Reichenhall spa gardens. Every day, 2-3 percent alpine brine trickles down
over approximately 100,000 bunches of blackthorn which finely disperse the
brine. The brine promotes circulation and eases
breathing.
In the old salt works, the machine shop is particularly significant from a
technical point of view. Two large water wheels were erected over the main well
shaft built in 1507.
Worth a visit: The former St. Zeno Augustine monastery of canons (1136). Its
oldest section is a Romanic cloister. St. Zeno Cathedral was the largest of all
Romanic basilicas in Upper Bavaria.
Tip! The
Predigtstuhl mountain railway takes you to the landmark Reichenhall mountain in
just 10 minutes. From the mountain station (1583 m), an easy mountain hike or
climb takes you to the peak (1613 m). The view of Bad Reichenhall, Salzburg and
the mountain panorama is unique.
Salzburg
Salzburg. This city on the Salzach is a giant, lively open-air
museum. From Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart to the singing von Trapp family from the
world-famous musical “The Sound of Music” – recipient of 5 Oscars – the city is
music. Who hasn’t heard of this beauty of the Alps, or shall we say of Europe?
Discovering Salzburg means rising early and taking the time for a leisurely
stroll through the city. Horse drawn carriages awaiting visitors at the
Residenzplatz offer a more comfortable option.
In Roman times the city was called “Juvavum”. This name, which was
retained by the Celts and Romans, originally came from the Illyrians. The
meaning of the name “Seat of the Heavenly God” leaves nothing to add. Salzburg
was declared a World Heritage Site in 1997. From the Romanesque to the Baroque,
the diocese city has amassed ample treasures: Hohensalzburg fortress (1077), a
residence, a magnificent cathedral (the first early Baroque church of the
Northern Alps, 1614-28; tip: the cathedral museum), Monastery of St. Peter (690,
picturesque view of the ancient St. Peter’s cemetery), a castle (Mirabell in the
new town), a large and a small festival hall, a cliff riding school, a shopping
district (Getreidegasse) and much more… As mentioned above, allow plenty of time
to explore this unique and beautiful city.
Other historic routes >>>
Our hotel recommendations for this route
Alm- & Wellnesshotel Alpenhof
Bavaria - Berchtesgaden / Königssee: The Alpine hotel falls out of the ordinary with its exeptional offers and its special familiar ambience.
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Ebner's Waldhof am See
Austria, Salzkammergut: The lakeside hotel near Salzburg. Just imagine lying in the middle of a lush lawn on a soft blue towel...
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